The 1200k started on the 26 October 1998 at the Ride headquarters,
on the Oval at the Recreation Camp in Anglesea, Victoria, which
is located on the Great Ocean Road. With my backup bags sent to
the controls where I thought I might need them, fed, and my bike
ready to go, I stood with 12 others; Oliver Portway (PBP 1995)
and I (PBP 1995 and ISR) from South Australia, 5 from Victoria
(Otto Galliker (who was the only rider to complete the 1998 520k
Murray to Moyne by riding straight through), Derek McKean (In
1993 was one of four riders who rode 770k in 24hrs on a OADT event),
Peter Martin (PBP 1995), Phil Gallagher and Craig Bassett, 2 from
Queensland (Gale Schaub and Thomas Maslen), one from NSW (Craig
McKenzie from Tumut), 2 from Denmark (Stig Lundgaard and Bjarne
Christensen) and one from Canada (Grant McLeod), started our journey
at 6 pm Monday night.
We were all in good spirits with the sun and
wind on our backs as we travelled in a bunch towards Ocean Grove
and our first control at Portarlington (74k). We turned into the
wind for the first time, but not the last, the night sky was clear.
The traffic got a little busier as we travelled through Geelong
and along the Hamilton Highway to our next control Inverleigh
(133). As we got closer the number of vehicle on the road went
down and so did the temperature. We found a controller freezing
his nuts off, I didn't stay long and the rest followed. Here in
Victoria I find that the really minor back roads reduce in sizes
by half with no warning and riding at night, it is a bit like
an obstacle course, I think we survived those obstacles. Along
here I lost contact with the leading bunch, but I was soon joined
by Otto Galliker and together we zigzagged our way back to Anglesea
(189), the third control.
The time was 1:32 am Tuesday and it was cold
as hell, so to my surprise the leading pack was still here, anyway
I joined the others inside the 'Audax Tent' on the oval for hot
pasta , hot coffee and other filling goodies. As are arrival times
were being updated all the time on the Internet, a cold Peter
Moore said that I had message from a friend from the Netherlands
(Yvonne van den Hork). It was good to hear from her at long last.
So it was time to get going again as the others
(Oliver, the two Danes, Stig and Bjarne, Otto, Peter Martin) were
leaving I stuffed my back pockets with bananas with excitement
as I have been looking forward to riding on the Great Ocean Road
in an Audax event for some time now. I started off with the group
but decided the pace was too hot (the initial loop was done at
about 25kph) for now so I dropped off and started enjoying the
scenery. I know some of you may say "what scenery, its dark!"
. As silly as it sounds I enjoyed seeing the moonlight lighting
up the waves as they crashed against the rocks and riding what
felt like a roller-coaster winding in and out of the many bays,
turning my head around and seeing a single front bike light weaving
in and out along the road.
The sun started to show some life as I passed
through Lorne and Apollo Bay and then the rain came, but the temperature
stayed the same. At Apollo Bay I just managed to take cover from
a down pour, so I stretched for awhile until the rain stopped
and repaired myself for the climb over the Otway Ranges and then
the climb to Lavers Hill. The climb was steeper than I remembered
from five years ago. Climbing through the national park it was
very lush and green, greener than South Australia at this time
of the year. It continued to rain off and on, when I was descending
on the final descent of the first hill I was thinking ' O-hell
I have to climb back up this one, I got my fastest speed here,
I heard it was about 2 or 3 kms and on the way back it turned
out to be tough as I thought. Between the two climbs there was
a flat spot in the valley where you had a chance to recover. I
eventually caught up with Stig first then Bjarne but not before
to my surprise I was climbing with snow on the road. Stig and
Bjarne were also very surprised as they thought Australia was
entering summer! I passed Bjarne when he and a driver were helping
an elderly woman get her car out of a ditch which it had slipped
into, it was the type of weather vehicles needrd chains on their
tyres.
I just managed to get inside the Laver's Hill
Roadhouse control point (312), before it started to pour, where
I found Oliver drying himself in front of a wood fire. We stayed
there for about an hour and a half waiting for the rain to stop.
When Stig and Bjarne joined us we headed down hill to Port Campbell
Youth Hostel control (362), I arrived 12 noon on the dot. But
along the way we saw some fantastic scenery including the 12 Apostles,
Loch And Gorge, and Sentinel Rock.
At Port Campbell were Phil Bellette, Des Taylor
and David Shaw (SA, who went to on complete his first 600 and
Super Series a few days later). They all helped us get fed and
fill the water bottles for our next stage. To Cobden control (402),
it was up and down pretty valleys with a few sharp pinches at
the end. After recovering at the McLaren's Bakery and finally
deciding not to wear my jacket and Otto just arriving who said
his knee was troubling him. We headed into the wind towards Warrnambool
and Port Fairy. The guys were travelling too quickly into the
wind so I decided to ride alone Eventually I arrived at the National
One Highway, being a week day I thought there would not be much
traffic like the rest of the ride had been, but I was wrong with
semitrailers and buses roaring past, plus fighting into the wind
made life tough. Once over Tower Hill and not without a down pour
while climbing it the wind seemed to get stronger as I neared
Port Fairy Youth Hostel control (489). When I arrived via the
scenic way, Lyndon Stacy and Mike Dippy (both South Australians)
were there to greet me. Lyndon said I was the first in at 6:50
pm Tuesday I was puzzled where the others were but about ten minutes
later Oliver, Stig and Bjarne arrived, apparently the two Danes
were in no hurry and stopped at Warrnambool at McDonalds for a
hamburger!
Lyndon and Mike worked tirelessly for 48 hrs
with only about 10 hrs sleep and still had a ball, Peter Moore
told them to enjoy themselves and they certainly took this on
board. Mike brought along two scooters and when nothing was happening
they rode around Port Fairy no matter what time of the day or
night.
Apparently Stig rode his four 1200's this year
on a bet. According to Lyndon, Oliver looked like it was all a
stroll in park at Port Fairy in both directions, but I did hear
he had some sleep at Halls Gap. The temperature that Tuesday night
dropped below zero for Oliver when climbing through the Grampians
and Oliver said his water bottle had frozen and could not drink
from it for a couple of hours. Lyndon and Mike experimented with
the food to brighten it up " no spices, but tasty"..
A sad looking Rodney Snibson (on the 600) rolled in an hour after
the control closed at Port Fairy and Otto pulled out with knee
trouble.
Stig and Bjarne and I decided to stay and sleep
for five hours until 1 am Wednesday. Oliver went on to Halls Gap.
I finally got to sleep after a great feed and seeing Lyndon and
Mike really having a great time. I got a rude shock as someone
was trying to wake me up, then I heard "Matt its time to
get up". Then I realised it was 1 am, after about an hour
getting ready to go Stig and Bjarne and I left, but not before
the first signs of the 1000k guys coming through which included
Peter Donnan and John Quinn (both PBP vets). As Lyndon called
them the "Famous old hands" (of Audax Australia) Peter,
John, and Bob Bednarz were riding the 1000 as if they enjoyed
every minute of it and to get the job done
So of we adventured into the night towards Macarthur
and Hamilton, as it turned out being a very cold night we froze
as we dipped in and out of what seemed like endless creek valleys,
especially Stig and Bjarne fingers as they did not have long gloves.
We finally made the 84k trip to Hamilton's 24 hr Roadhouse control
(573) as the sun started to rise for the second time for this
ride. The warmth of the roadhouse was a welcome relief for all
of us. We all had a good breakfast (hamburger with the lot for
me) as we thawed out. With the sun out but still a bit of cool
wind around we headed towards the Grampians. Not too much further
down the road the air started to warm up and the Grampian Ranges
came into view and what a sight it was. The traffic was not too
bad along the Glenelg Highway but I was still glad to get off
it. After a short drinks break at Dunkeld we were ready to tackle
the climbs to Halls Gap. I rode along here about five years ago
with a fully loaded mountain bike and don't remember there being
so many climbs, but a I do remember the scenery being just as
good as we passed Mt Abrupt, Cathedral Rock and Lake Bellfield
( Stig stopped here to take some photographs of the lake). I knew
we were getting close when there was a 10 or so kms descent into
Halls Gap.
After the long haul from Dunkeld to the Grampians
Gardens Caravan Park (66k) just on the other side of Halls Gap,
we met Oliver on his return from Moyston and we heard about his
cold experiences last night.
At 12:08 pm we arrived at the Caravan Park (671)
to find our two controllers (Stephen Brown and Doug Jones). Everyone
there told me I was looking tired ( but wasn't everyone!) We stayed
longer than usual and again tackled the headwind to Moyston control
(701). Stig and I had a chance to laugh along here as Bjarne got
swooped by magpies twice, once to and once from Moyston. At Moyston
being a small country town we got our brevet cards stamped at
a shop that sold everything. Revived with a tailwind on our backs
we seemed to be back at Halls Gap (731) in no time at all (4 pm).
We always had the Grampians scenery on our side as a reminder
of what was to come. Just before Halls Gap we passed a group going
in the other direction ( the two Peter's, Grant, Phil, Thomas
and John, with Bob just behind).
After the climb back out of Halls Gap the ride
back to Dunkeld was a little easier, but not much with the road
rolling in and out of valleys. Stig and Bjarne were fascinated
by the wild life especially when the kangaroos jumped across the
road. I warned them early that the last wild life you want to
hit is a kangaroo, you will come off second best, when they saw
them they agreed. We passed many kangaroos grazing beside the
road and of course they took photographs of them.
The third night was just about upon us as we
neared Hamilton, again the traffic was not too bad on the Glenelg
Highway. With our lights on we rolled into Hamilton's Robbos 24
hr Roadhouse control (829), but not before we went around in circles
looking for it, I think we were tired, confused and disoriented
or was it not reading our instruction! So with plenty of coffee
and another hamburger with the lot to wake ourselves up, we set
out towards Port Fairy, taking a wrong turn for a km at first,
but soon we were on the right track. It was cold again but not
as cold as last night. We did stop in Macarthur for awhile where
I took a 10 minute nap next to the local Post office while Stig
and Bjarne made an unsuccessful attempt to phone home (Denmark!).
One thing I hate about these night rides is that you think you
are close to the next town when you can see its light in the distance,
but of course you are not, so for the next 10 or 15 kms you wonder
where the hell it is. This was the case when I first saw Port
Fairy lights, the road kept on zigzagging around a hill until
I came to a T junction and Port Fairy. Just before arriving Bjarne
who was riding in front of me suddenly swerved and what sounded
like a very loud cat screech and Bjarne, I think swearing something
in Danish, to me it sounded and looked very funny and I just started
to laugh. But it also brought back an horrible memory of the 1995
Murray to Moyne when Lyndon, Oliver, John Edgar and myself were
riding four abreast near Hamilton when suddenly Lyndon and John
were lying across each other on the road, caused by Lyndon hitting
a cat which we never saw. How Oliver and I stayed up right I will
never know (June 1995 'Checkpoint'). When I finally caught Bjarne
and asked 'what was that?' Bjarne was not sure! When Stig caught
up and we told him what happened, we all started laughing about
it!
It was 2 am Thursday morning as we walked through
the door of the Port Fairy Youth Hostel control (916). We finally
got our brevet cards stamped after waking Lyndon up and finding
Mike still asleep and Oliver welcoming us. Lyndon was up and in
no time at all asking and getting what we wanted. In the meantime
I showered, but to get to these showers you had to go outside
and into another room which was not heated; while the showers
were hot, getting dried was not. Again I had a great feed and
was quickly to bed for an 8 o'clock rise. That came around too
quickly as the sun shone through the window and woke me a little
early, but it was looking like a warm and nice day ahead. I at
first was looking at going with the next group behind me as Stig
and Bjarne wonted to leave early by 6 am to try to see some of
the Great Ocean Road between Apollo Bay and Anglesea in day light,
but this did not eventuate as they got up later than I. Stig and
Bjarne plus Grant McLeod all left with me at about 9 am. In the
end the next group behind me didn't leave Port Fairy until a couple
of hours later.
As the four of us turned onto Gipps Street and
across the Moyne River and headed towards Warrnambool, we were
down on our handlebars and formed a single file peloton pushing
into the headwind all the way to Warrnambool. The traffic along
here was the same as before, we finally arrived in Warrnambool
and Grant decided to find a restaurant for some more food. Stig
and Bjarne and I decided to push on, just before leaving town
I saw David Shaw and Darryn Hooper (both doing the 600 and turning
around at Port Fairy) riding in the other direction. The temperature
started to rise for the first time on this ride, so it was time
to put on the sunscreen. We did so at a road side rest area about
half way between Warrnambool and Cobden.
As you do at this stage of the ride you feel
relieved each time you come to a new town and are able to sit
down on a different seat, which was the case when we arrived at
McLaren's Bakery control at Cobden (1000). Being a warm day I
bought myself the biggest spring water bottle I could find, as
did Stig and Bjarne as it had been thirsty work. All I remember
about the ride to Port Campbell was that it was very hilly with
some very sharp climbs, hard on the legs as my biggest rear cog
started to slip when I really needed to stand when climbing, it
certainly made life tough when climbing the second half of the
Otway Ranges. Also at one stage Stig and Bjarne got me to take
a photo of them standing underneath a yellow road sign with a
picture of a kangaroo!
At Port Campbell Youth Hostel control (1040)
we were greeted by Des and Sue Taylor. I think it was 3 or 4 pm
when we arrived there. I asked Sue where Phil was and she said
he had to go back to work so she had to take over his job and
Sue and Des still did a wonderful job getting drinks and filling
our water bottles and serving us yummy whole cooked potatoes with
cheese topping. Some of the 400k riders arrived while we were
there. It was time get going again as we headed towards Princetown
where the climbing would start again. Just as we were about to
leave Port Campbell Stig and Bjarne spotted an Australian flag
outside a house therefore I grabbed Stig's camera and took a photo
of them both standing in front of the flag. After that photo section
was over we were down to business grinding into the strongest
headwind of the trip with no protection as the wind was coming
straight off the sea. We did get some relief from the wind as
there were some dips into creek crossings. Passing in the other
direction were some more of the 400k riders having a ball!
About five kilometres outside Princetown where
the road was curving around a hillside, the piece of road on the
edge was rough as hell. It made us ride in the middle for awhile
and trying to look out for cars coming from behind. This section
soon ended as the 31k climb to Lavers Hill began with only a couple
of hours left of daylight, it was still enough to see the wonderfully
scenery across the hills to the sea. We were starting to spread
out along here, climbing at our own pace, until I caught Stig
at a road side lookout admiring the view and taking a few photos.
Bjarne soon caught up with us and we climbed the rest of the way
to Laver's Hill together.
We finally reached Laver's Hill control (1090)
just on dusk, to find Eileen Johnson and Ann Bednarz in one of
the cosy cabins ready to stuff food down our throats continuously
and at one stage they were cooking so much that the steam from
the food set off the fire alarm in the cabin! Thanks guys for
wanting me to put on weight, I did not go hungry there. When I
got home my mother said I had lost weight!? With one more hill
and the finish in site, we thanked Eileen and Ann for another
great feed and a warm spot to eat, so we were off again. We set
off into our fourth and final night with Stig and Bjarne roaring
down the hill but I opted for a more cautious approach but I soon
caught Stig who said something felt loose in his headset area,
I'm not sure exactly where the problem was. But I do not think
he had any more problems with it.
Bjarne seemed to get a second wind here as Stig
and I did not catch him until Apollo Bay. Personally I found the
second climb over the Otway Ranges very tough starting with that
two or three km sharp climb. Stig and I stopped a couple of times
to rest our weary minds and tired legs, relief came when we were
about 10k from Apollo Bay, we could see the lights of Apollo Bay
and it started to go down hill. Feeling tired I stopped for a
little while, while Stig met up with Bjarne again and the two
went on. Finally deciding that I won't finish staying here I pressed
on. Getting even more tired as I wound in and out and up and down
along the Great Ocean Road passing through Skenes Creek and Kennett
River. When I got to Wye River I found a secret checkpoint and
Stig and Bjarne and a chilled controller, Jeremy Tatchell. Peter
Moore said about the helpers in his "The Great Southern Randonnee
- Final Report" on the Audax email list "They were also
wet and cold at various times" This controller was definitely
one of the cold ones. Stig and Bjarne were just leaving as I arrived,
but I was staying for a 15 minute nap. 15 minutes later and feeling
a whole lot better and the controller nowhere to be seen, I think
he must have been asleep he his car. With the end in sight I started
to move along, time passed quickly as I listened to my small walkman,
they were talking about the history of the Sydney Opera House
being 25 years old, it was very interesting!
I soon found myself riding under the farewell
arch for the Great Ocean Road near Fairhaven. A couple of kilometres
down the road at Airey's Inlet I could finally see the lights
of Anglesea. Ten kilometres later I entered Anglesea riding through
the lit main street, then along a back road to the dirt road and
onto the Recreation Camp oval and into the Audax Tent where I
again found a cold Peter Moore (who welcomed me back) along with
Oliver (who had finished some eight hours ago), Stig and Bjarne
(who only finished five minutes ago). I congratulated Stig on
successfuly completing four 1200's in a year and therefore becoming
the second person to complete an ISR 1200 and when Grant McLeod
finisheded he was the third to complete an ISR 1200. The first
ISR 1200 (Johannes Kristiansen) also from Denmark and also from
the same club as Stig and Bjarne. I rode with Johannes Kristiansen
on 1200 in Denmark in 1996 and hearing Stig and Bjarne talk in
Danish a lot reminded me of that ride. After discussing the highs
and lows, a hot shower in the cold change rooms and something
more to eat I got to bed. After some hours of sleep I started
to watch the remaining riders roll in. To complete the 1200 ride
Phil Gallagher, Peter Martin, Thomas Maslen and Grant McLeod,
the 1000 Bob Bednarz, Peter Donnan and John Quinn and the 600
Darryn Hooper and David Shaw. Oliver and I were already on our
way back to Adelaide when the 400 riders finished, well done to
all. Commiseration to the riders who did not make it this time.
Most of us a had huge breakfast in the Recreation Eating Hall
then it was thanks for the ride and see you all next time. Thanks
Peter for a good ride.
A week later I got a call from Kath Cooper who
said Grant was coming to Adelaide, so I caught up with Grant again.
At some stage during the night I mentioned that I was planning
to do the EL and Super Scandinavia Brevet in a few years. He said
'maybe I will too' 'Then will I see you there then?' I responded
'maybe you will'.
Matthew
Rawnsley